The European Union has officially banned a chemical that is often used in gel nail paints starting on September 1. They say it could be bad for your health.
TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide) is the chemical that gives gels their shiny, long-lasting finish, but research shows that it could be quite dangerous.
What is TPO, and why is it not allowed?
TPO is a photoinitiator that helps gel polish harden quickly under UV or LED lamps. It also gives the finish a smooth, chip-resistant look that customers enjoy.
European regulators, on the other hand, found that the chemical is bad for fertility and reproductive health. According to a study from 2024, EU law now classifies it as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction.”
Not all gel polishes have TPO in them, but a lot of brands still use it. Until recently, the chemical could only be used by professionals at a concentration of no more than 5%. Now, it is completely illegal to sell or use it in cosmetics, and salons don’t have any time to sell off their old stock.
The EU’s decision comes after it has banned substances that are thought to be harmful in other countries, like BHA, BHT, and certain additives that are still allowed in U.S. food and beauty goods.
Experts argue the ban is a safety measure
Some experts think that the ban is more of a precautionary measure than a direct response to incidents in people. Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist, told WellnessPulse that the European Union is banning it out of prudence. We don’t have any large-scale research on humans that show harm yet, but the possible hazards were enough to call for stronger rules.
The EU’s decision solely affects cosmetics, not medical products. TPO is also used in dental materials.
The verdict has made things very hard for nail salons and anyone who import products. Many people say that the September 1 deadline came too soon, leaving them with little time to find alternatives that don’t contain TPO. Salons must now throw away all of their old stock right away, with no exceptions.
In the meanwhile, the US has not put any limits on TPO. Many gel nail companies still use the component, but there are no rules that say they have to label it so that people know it’s there.
Things to know about gel nails
If you’re worried about exposure, experts say you should ask salons for TPO-free products, space out your gel manicures, use protective base coats, and make sure the treatments are done in places with good air flow.
But gel manicures aren’t just bad for your TPO levels. Podiatrists say that the UV or LED lamps used to cure polish may raise the risk of skin cancer, and that too much prep work on the nail plate might hurt it for a long time.
There are additional disadvantages to letting gels “grow out,” such as getting an infection from Pseudomonas bacteria (commonly known as “greenies”), which can tint the nail green or blue when moisture gets under the lifted varnish. In healthy people, the bacteria are normally not harmful, but they can cause serious illnesses in persons with weak immune systems.